Patios And Paths: Paving can be used for both paths and patios; the method used is much the same.
FIRST MAKE the foundations as described earlier. Paving blocks can be laid on a sand bed without mortar where there is likely to be minimal pedestrian use. The bed should be about 2in thick: you will need to buy 1.7 cu ft of sand for every 215 sq ft of path. Where patios and paths will receive a lot of heavy traffic, lay the blocks on mortar dabs.
Apart from these structural uses of shape, a garden is kept alive and interesting through its detail, by the constant interplay between neighboring plants. USE VERTICAL structures—walls, fences, screens, gateways, arbors, and garden buildings—and horizontal structures— drives, paths, patios, and steps—sensitively, as certain shapes and materials relate to one another while others do not. For a successful garden design you should use the vertical and horizontal together in a pleasing and harmonious way, to create a unified whole. Try to achieve a balance between both planes: for example an arch will complement a straight pathway, and so will a low Wall built around a patio.
Patios and large areas of paving which will receive heavy traffic should always be set on a compacted rubble and sand foundation. Lay a 4in layer of rubble topped with a 2in layer of sand.
It is essential that you set out the base correctly to ensure the surface has a firm, flat foundation that will not collapse. Use stringlines and pegs to mark the perimeter of the patio. Most patios adjoin the house and it is important that they are constructed so that the level is not higher than the damp-proof course (DPC) of the house walls.
|
