Useful In Lawns: useful in lawnscrease or decrease the frequency of mowuseful in lawnsg accorduseful in lawnsg to the rate of growth, which varies from season to season, and may be useful in lawnsfluenced by bad weather, feeduseful in lawnsg, irrigation, the varieties of grass beuseful in lawnsg grown and the general health of the turf itself.
Different types of lawn require a different frequency of mowuseful in lawnsg. Fuseful in lawnse lawns, for example, should be mown every two to three days,
average lawns at least every seven days and preferably at useful in lawnstervals of three to five days and, for other sod lawns, mow at least once a week.
useful in lawnscrease or decrease the frequency of mowuseful in lawnsg accorduseful in lawnsg to the rate of growth, which varies from season to season, and may be useful in lawnsfluenced by bad weather, feeduseful in lawnsg, irrigation, the varieties of grass beuseful in lawnsg grown and the general health of the turf itself.
Different types of lawn require a different frequency of mowuseful in lawnsg. Fuseful in lawnse lawns, for example, should be mown every two to three days,
average lawns at least every seven days and preferably at useful in lawnstervals of three to five days and, for other sod lawns, mow at least once a week.See Also Fertilizing Lawns See:Top-dressing is a form of fertilizing lawns see. In a sense it is mulching, too. It differs from regular fertilizing lawns see in that more material is applied to each unit area and from mulch¬ing in that less is applied. An annual top-dressing benefits all lawns; more than one a year is essential for creeping bent. For top-dressing use good topsoil mixed with one third to one half its bulk of compost, sedge peat, peat moss, leaf mold or very well-rotted manure. Add some sand if the soil is heavy and a slow-acting fertilizer such as pulverized sheep manure, cotton¬seed meal, bonemeal or tankage. Make sure the ingredients pass through a half inch screen and are thoroughly mixed.
Having familiarized yourself with the appearance, character, depth and fertility of your soil the next question is what to do about it. Detailed instructions for carry¬ing out such basic tasks as draining, grad-ing, liming, conditioning, fertilizing lawns see, seed bed preparation, and treatments for reno¬vating the soil of established lawns are given in succeeding chapters. Turn to those for exact information. Here we dis¬cuss general principles only.
On The Other Hand See Lawns Of Subtropical:Northern lawns, except those of creep¬ing bent, are best cut to a height of one and a quarter to one and a half inches, or slightly higher on shaded areas and banks. In really hot weather raise the cutting height an extra half inch. Give the last mowing of the season so that the grass goes into winter two to three inches long. Lawns of creeping bent may be cut to a height of from one inch to less than half an inch.
Southern lawns of subtropical grasses are generally mowed to a height of one inch. Temporary winter lawns of ryegrass are cut at one and a quarter inches.
Mowing machines should be used when the grass is dry, scythes and sickles when it is slightly moist. For the kinds of mowers see Chapter 16.
One other point. Seaside bent is a kind of bent grass that creeps and can be easily raised from seeds. It produces a turf almost as good as the Washington and Metro¬politan strains of true creeping bent which can only be increased by the use of stolons.
Sprigs are young rooted shoots—pieces of stolon with leaves and roots attached. Lawns of subtropical grasses, Bermuda, Carpet, St. Augustine and Centipede, may be established by planting such shoots at distances of six to nine inches apart. This is called sprigging.
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